Sunday, March 9, 2008

Rakiura Track and the Sausage Capital of New Zealand

I decided that I would indeed do the Rakiura Track, one of New Zealand's so-called "Great Walks". The ferry over to the island cost $110 total, so I was determined to get my moneys-worth out of the island. The night before my ferry left I stayed in a Backpacker hostel in Bluff, the southern-most town on the south island. I met a nice Swiss guy there, and got everything packed into my tramping (hiking) pack for the next couple of days. Headed over Foveaux Straight and arrived at Stewart Island.
I went to the Department of Conservation office to fill out a trip intentions form, and to buy hut and camping tickets. I started off, and made it to the beginning of the track by about 12:30pm. Time for lunch and I haven't even gotten started. I headed along the track, and made my way to Kaipipi Bay (I think that was the name). It was nice, and I decided to try my luck with my collapsible spin-fishing rod. I caught a little fish after about 20 minutes, but it was only about as long as my hand, so I let it go. That was to be the only successful fishing of my island stay, but at least now I felt justified with bringing it along.
I got to North Arm hut at about 5pm, just before the rain started. I set up my sleeping bag, and met two women from the US, who had just graduated from Oberlin and were in NZ doing more or less what I'm doing, except more hiking and no biking. I cooked my dinner, which actually consisted of fresh potatoes, peas, carrot and tomato, which I had been too reluctant to toss in the rubbish. And then I added some couscous and salami to thicken it up and add flavour, respectfully.
We (me and the two from the U.S.) went on a kiwi-hunt at night-time, but to no avail. At one point something fell from a tree, and of course the first thing any of us thought at any sound was: "is that a kiwi". So, I just started laughing far too loudly for kiwi-stalking, because I got this mental image of a kiwi that had somehow made it up a tree, and who had then fallen and tried to flap his wings, only to remember that he was, indeed, a flightless bird. So we didn't have too good a chance of seeing kiwi after that. Besides, I just can't imagine a kiwi casually strolling down the middle of the walking track in the middle of the night, so I don't know what the odds were anyways.
The next day I left fairly late, and had a big climb ahead of me. By now I had realized that I was doing the hike in the opposite direction to everyone else. After lots of fairly un-eventful hiking through bush, I made it to my next destination, Port William campsite. All the while getting rained on. I set my tent up, and promptly fell asleep without any dinner. I woke up at about 10pm and made some instant mashed potatoes, and then fell asleep again.
In the morning, I awoke (probably the wrong word, since to awaken one must be asleep in the first place) to find that over the night my tent had filled with about 3 inches of water. I packed everything up (still raining outside), and tried to wring out my absolutely sodden sleeping bag. My pack weighed a lot more from all of the water, but it was the last leg of my trip so I didn't mind as much.
I made it into Oban, the town on the island, and found a backpackers to stay at for the night. In the morning, some inquisitive Kaka (big NZ parrot) flew around the porch, probably in search of food. I got some cool close-up pictures of them, which was pretty neat.


I messed around in the town for that day, running into some people I had met going the opposite way along the track, and we went to the pub (my feeble excuse being that it was raining at the time).
Later, at around 6pm, I jumped on the ferry back to Bluff. Very different. More like a roller coaster than a boat, it was quite fun, but a little sickening after a while. A bag of Jelly Beans in my tummy didn't help things along, either.
In Bluff, I went back to the same backpackers, and offered them 5 hours of work from me in exchange for 2 nights accommodation, which they accepted. I dried my stuff out, and did the work (paint-stripping and loading things up into a trailer). Left and went through Invercargill, to Riverton, arriving at about 9pm. Set up my tent in some sheltered field and cooked a "stir-fry" just to try something new. Didn't really work because my pot's too small, but it was alright. Also, no good seasonings.
Next day went to Monkey Island, a place just off the road where you can camp for free. There, I ran into this couple who I had also run into in Fortrose, and Brighton, about a week or two earlier. They offered me dinner which I gratefully accepted, and afterwards I went for a bit of a walk.




I found this really cool cave/tunnel up a small cliff, and went up and poked my head inside. It was obviously carved out by humans, but it was fun.



Now I'm running out of time. Really quickly. Next, went through Tuatapere, "NZ's Sausage Capital". I bought some sausages, and went further on until Clifden, where there's a cool bridge.I'll finish this later.

3 comments:

Gvixis said...

Kea, not kaka, but close! Loved the blog, made me homesick (Im a kiwi in london). Glad you had a fab time!

Gvixis said...

its spelt Kea, not kaka but close enough (and fab pic). Glad you enjoyed the trip...made me feel v homesick!

Ben C said...

Hey there Gvixis!

I haven't checked the comments on this blog in ages, so it was exciting to see a new comment!

I took the bird picture on Stewart Island, and I'm pretty sure there aren't any keas on that island, but the Kakas are a close relative of the kea, I guess. They're pesky little birds! I had a great trip in NZ, and thanks again for the comment.

-Ben